Fine Jewelry Tips & Knowledge Part Two: Metals & Men's Rings.

After having decided on what type of diamond you want the next thing you'll have to consider is what kind of metal you want your stones set in.

Gold karats are different than diamond carats. The varying numbers in gold karat indicate how much gold is actually in the gold. 24 kt gold is pure gold, the smaller the number gets, the more other metals have been included. Those other metals make the piece sturdier. 24 kt gold generally is not used to make jewelry, it's too soft and breaks frequently. For a ring I would suggest nothing over 18 kt. Personally, I like 14 kt gold. I feel like my tips and prongs are secure and strong and I don't have to worry about stones falling out. 10 kt gold is used to make jewelry as well but generally is not used for bridal because it's less gold than it is other metals. It can usually be found in created gemstone pieces. The higher the gold content, the more expensive the piece. 

Gold comes mainly in yellow or white although some do prefer rose gold. White gold is made from yellow gold. If you're allergic to nickel, forgo white gold. Over time, white gold will start to look a little yellowish, especially the shank (the bottom of the ring). It is an easy fix, send it in to be rhodium plated, it'll be bright white again when you get it back.

Another very hyped and popular choice is Platinum. Personally, I am not a huge fan. It's not that there is anything wrong with it (other than it being extremely expensive) but I've found from people coming in to get their rings cleaned and checked that once they scratch up their ring, I cannot get the scratches out no matter how long I buff it. Once those scratches are there, they're there to stay, and if I'm going to spend that much on something, I want it to look nice. The benefit to platinum is that it is very strong and I would very rarely have a customer come in with a missing stone in a platinum setting.

Diamonds should never be set in sterling silver. Silver is not strong enough to hold your stones throughout every day wear. If someone tries to sell you diamonds set in sterling, know that they're nuts and run the other way. (I love sterling for other things, such as turquoise, but avoid it for diamonds).

Also, some stores have recently begun to carry something called P4. It's made up of platinum, palladium, white gold and silver. It's mostly silver and this stuff will tarnish. They have begun using it because the price of gold is soaring and the economy is bad so it's a cost effective alternative to white gold. Except that, in the short time we had it in the store while I worked there, I have never had so many issues with jewelry. We were constantly sending P4 jewelry out for repair after repair. I would say, avoid this stuff if possible. It's basically a fancier name for sterling silver.

My ring is set in 14kt white gold. Although we're not married Jake has a ring too but he wears it on his right hand. I think he was jealous of my pretty jewelry and wanted his own. His is a tungsten band.

Now onto men’s rings: try to get one with a comfort fit shank, they are much more comfortable to wear and won't cut into his finger so much.

Gold or Platinum: see above.

Titanium: It’s strong, it is possible to be cut off a finger in a jewelry store but it is very difficult. The issue with titanium is that it is scratchable and the scratches cannot be buffed out. Cannot be sized so if he gains or loses weight, you must purchase a new ring.

Tungsten: This is also very strong and has some heft to it. It cannot be cut off in a jewelry store but a hospital could cut it off if need be. I’ve never seen one come back in scratched. If you are wearing a ring and your finger gets smashed, the ring will shatter rather than squish and cut your finger off like gold or titanium. Cannot be sized.

Ceramic Carbide: These are similar to tungsten but in black. Again, cannot be sized.

If you’re going for a titanium, tungsten or ceramic carbide ring, try to stay away from ones that have an inlay of another metal such as silver or gold. Those metals are not as strong and will wear and eventually fall out leaving your ring looking rather funny. This happens very very frequently. Don't think this means the ring has to be boring though. There are lots of different finishes applied to these rings and they can hold diamonds as well.  

Spinner rings: I have seen a lot of these break, and I mean, a lot. Usually what happens is either side that is holding the spinning part of the ring in, will pop off and then the spinner can be taken off of the inner ring. If you buy one, get a service plan on it that offers replacement.

Check back Tuesday for general tips and tricks from purchasing gemstones to getting a good deal and knowing when a salesperson is full of it.